Kamakura Days: A Coastal Pause from Tokyo

A Spring Day in Kamakura: Tokyo’s Coastal Counterpoint

Just a one-hour train ride from Tokyo, Kamakura feels like stepping into another world. The fast-paced energy of the capital gives way to laid-back coastal charm—think Encinitas in Southern California, complete with temples, trails, and chilled-out eateries. In April 2025, with cherry blossoms drifting lazily through temple lanes and the sea breeze carrying hints of salt and incense, we found exactly the reset we’d hoped for.

The contrast with Tokyo is striking. In the city, it’s neon and concrete; in Kamakura, it’s sand, sea, and serenity. Kamakura’s thoughtful pace lets you truly linger—whether gazing at the Great Buddha, wandering bamboo groves at Hokoku-ji, or sipping slow-drip coffee with ocean views. Though most travelers do it as a day trip, we’re convinced this coastal haven deserves at least one night. After sunset, the town empties out, offering quiet temple paths, softly lit alleys, and early-morning market rituals that feel extra special.

Our Café picks:

• Cafe Kamakura Yama – A minimalist hilltop café serving homemade sweets and hand-brewed coffee.

• Sahan – Elegant Japanese set meals in a calm, modern setting.

• Good Mellows – Beachside burgers with true SoCal Encinitas energy.

• Verve Coffee Roasters – The California-based roaster nails the vibe with stellar espresso and ocean breeze.

• Umi no Ie Sorairo – A seasonal pop-up for seafood and sake just steps from the surf.

• Beach House Thai Food – A hidden gem blending Thai spice with seaside ambiance—think tangy papaya salad and curry bowls after a stroll on the sand.

• Wood-Fired Oven Heidi (Enoshima) – Rustic and soulful, this local favorite serves artisanal pizzas and seasonal small plates straight from a wood-burning oven in a cozy, design-forward setting.
  
  

Shops & Vintage Finds

• Kamakura Shirts (Flagship Store) – Classic tailoring with Japanese precision. Our creative director lives in their Vintage Ivy Oxford shirt by Graham Marsh—a timeless staple with Ivy League cool.

• Butter Vintage KAMAKURA – Curated vintage fashion near the main shrine, with gems from the ’80s to early ’00s.

• ARZACH KAMAKURA – A boutique with European deadstock clothing, vintage ceramics, and rare books.

• Hatsune Antique Kamakura – A tucked-away shop full of Edo-era curios, swords, and historic treasures.
  

Why Stay Overnight?

Day-trippers might tick off the highlights, but once the rush-hour crowds depart, Kamakura transforms. You’ll experience quiet backstreets, uncrowded beaches, and temples bathed in golden-hour light. Whether enjoying papaya salad by the sea at Beach House Thai Food, kneading dough at Pico Pizza—and yes, getting lost in vintage havens and sipping coffee at sunrise—staying the night turns a trip into a lingering escape. Pack an overnight bag; this coastal gem is worth waking up slightly off-schedule.

Riding the Enoden: Kamakura’s Vintage Coastal Train

One of the unexpected highlights of Kamakura is the Enoden Line, a charming vintage railway that connects Kamakura to Enoshima and onward to Fujisawa. Riding it feels like stepping into a Studio Ghibli frame—its narrow green-and-cream cars rattle gently through neighborhoods, brushing so close to homes you can peek into everyday life as it passes by. Originally opened in 1902, the Enoden isn’t just transportation—it’s part of the experience.

The tracks wind past hydrangea-lined hillsides, peek out along stretches of ocean, and stop within walking distance of temples, beach cafés, and Enoshima Island itself. It’s not unusual to share the ride with surfers carrying boards, schoolkids in uniforms, and travelers with cameras pressed to the glass. From Kamakura Station, hop on for a slow, 30-minute coastal cruise that feels more like time travel than a commute.

For us, this short train ride became a favorite ritual—always accompanied by a coffee to go and the low hum of waves somewhere just beyond the next curve.