Ramen, Soba, Tempura

We spent three months in Japan moving between cities, neighborhoods, and train stations — and somehow always found ourselves back at the same places to eat. This isn’t a guide to the best or the most famous. Just a short list of spots that felt right. Quiet, thoughtful meals that stayed with us after we left. Ramen in Kyoto, soba in Tokyo, and tempura in Koenji.

Ramen Katamuki (Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto)

Katamuki was a quiet favorite during our time in Kyoto. It sits just off the main street near Shichijo Station, inside a beautifully restored wooden townhouse. The space is peaceful, the kind of place where time feels slower. Ordering is done through a ticket machine and the menu includes vegan and halal options, which is rare and refreshing.

We loved the chicken-based ramen, which was delicate and full of umami. The soy broth was clean and warm, and the noodles had a perfect bite. Everything was balanced from the broth to the toppings and never heavy.

We came back more than once. Sometimes after a morning walk, sometimes at night when the streets were quiet. Katamuki is not flashy, but it is thoughtful and comforting in a way that sticks with you. It felt like a small sanctuary in the middle of the city.

Visit Katamuki

Kanda Matsuya (Chiyoda City, Tokyo)

Kanda Matsuya is a soba shop in central Tokyo that has been open for over a century. Inside, the wooden architecture and open kitchen immediately make it feel timeless. You can see soba being made by hand just behind the counter.

The cold soba with dipping sauce is what we kept returning to. It’s simple but perfect. The noodles are firm with a hint of grain, and the sauce is rich without overpowering. Tempura and warm soba options are also available, but the cold soba stood out most.

What made this place special was how grounded it felt. The room was filled with quiet regulars and first-time visitors alike, all moving at the same calm pace. You eat, you leave, and something about it stays with you. Kanda Matsuya is not trying to be anything other than itself, and that’s exactly why it works.

Visit Kanda Matsuya

Tensuke (Koenji, Tokyo)

Tensuke is a small tempura counter in Koenji that serves one of the most memorable meals we had in Japan. The space is compact with a few counter seats, and you watch everything being made fresh in front of you.

The highlight is the egg tempura. It arrives hot and crispy, then breaks open to reveal a perfectly soft yolk. Served over rice with sauce, it’s comforting and somehow still surprising every time. The rest of the set shrimp, squid, vegetables  is equally precise and satisfying.

There is often an almost hour-long wait to get a seat, but every minute felt worth it. The chef works with confidence, tossing shells and chatting with customers as he moves. It feels local and personal in a way many places don’t.

Tensuke focuses on doing one thing extremely well, making it an unforgettable experience.

Visit Tensuke

There are endless places to eat in Japan, and we barely scratched the surface. But these three stood out not for being loud or elaborate, but for doing one thing really well. Whether it was a perfect bowl of ramen, hand-cut soba served with care, or an egg tempura that cracked open like a trick each place offered something we wanted to return to. And did.